San Diego – Getting away from LA, Mission Bay and the Zoo

Combine serious heat with the worst traffic jams I’ve ever seen and you get seriously p*ss*d tourists. If I never ever see LA again it’ll be too soon. I think coming from all the beautiful landscapes and little towns that we’d been in (barring San Francisco, which was the most chilled city I’ve ever been to, other than Amsterdam) LA was just way too much – too much noise, too many people and too much stuff. I think the fact that we were navigating with a cartoon map which had about 10% of the streets on it and was the size of my hand might have had something to do with the pain of the journey ;)

I resolve to be less rubbish…

Yes it’s been two months since my last post and yes I have been extremely rubbish in not writing a single thing in all that time – and for not actually making anything in that time! I didn’t even finish off my American road trip round up…I will get on to that this weekend…well try to.

My birthday was lovely, Christmas was relaxing, New Years a raucous blur etc etc etc. Fun was had but nothing got done!

The main issue at the moment is the number of things I seem to need to do and the amount of time that I have to them, my mind is willing but time and body conspire against me and I never get to do any of the things I intend to.

At the moment I am intending to

finish decorating our house (3 rooms down, 4 to go), make a stupendous amount of stuff for our wedding at the beginning of May, lose at least a stone by having only 1200 calories a day and finish some of the numerous quilting/sewing projects that I started last year.

Even typing that has worn me out! But my resolution, above and beyond all the other things I need to get done in the next 4 months is to be generally less rubbish, more proactive and GET THINGS DONE!

That is all.

New Years Moustache

 

Santa Barbara via Route 1 – Scenery, Jack Daniels and seafood

Whilst in Santa Barbara the one thing that you must do is visit Stearns Wharf – we walked along it but there were plenty of people completely adverse to using their flesh sticks (it’s a 5 minute slow walk) who drove along the pier…hmmm. Anyways, at the end of the pier is a seafood shack – Santa Barbara Shellfish Company –  that must be enjoyed! They have massive tanks of crabs and lobsters. The prices are seriously reasonable and the service very charming. Everything is a little sticky and fishy smelling and we had a sea-gull who was just waiting for us to make one wrong move to have our dinner away from us but the view from this place is second to none!

And that was Santa Barbara…onwards to LA hell…

Monterey Bay – Gorgeous beaches, Steinbeck and bike riding…

Getting to Monterey was more than a little painful, not because of the roads (which were pretty crazy – there are NO rules) or the weather (which was gorgeous) but because Mr B suddenly developed a complete inability to follow directions and ended up going back into San Francisco rather than round the bay via Oakland and Berkeley as we’d intended!

At least we got to drive on both bridges though and I think it saved us time in the end but the mood in the car was a little strained for a while there! :) We did then join the beginning of Route 1 and saw some stunning scenery as the road winds along the Pacific coast (though the drive along the Big Sur stretch was more breathtaking – more on that later).

Monterey Bay had a pretty hard act to follow after the beauty of Sonoma Valley and the pain of getting there but our apartment was really lovely and homely – with a lot of IKEA furnishings! I found it on HomeAway and it was about 4 blocks back from the sea and came with free bikes and aquarium passes.

We managed to find the energy after our drive to walk down to the sea, had a meander down the pier – seriously touristy – and then found an amazing fish shop which had the HUGEST clams I’ve ever bought. That evening we had a seriously cold bottle of Beltane Ranch wine with our own home-made Spaghetti Vongole and nothing has ever tasted so good!

Beltane Ranch Wine

Other than eating as much seafood as humanly possible, here are a few things I could recommend doing whilst you are in Monterey:

1. Visit Carmel by Sea – and take a dip in the ocean from your own private beach. If you drive the ocean road between Monterey and Carmel there are loads of beaches and not a single one of them had more than about 2 people on it. We pulled up by the side of the road and spent a wonderful couple of hours on the beach – though everyone looked at us like we were mental as we sun bathed in our costumes whilst they sat huddled in their hoodies…

MontereyBeach1

2. Ride a bike along the ocean ride – We were really lucky that we got the use of bikes with our apartment and Mr B eventually persuaded me to return to the saddle after a very long time of not riding (about 15 years by my recollection!) when I’d had a couple too many wines. It turns out I cycle much better when slightly tipsy as I’m less concerned for my life/face/knees/other bikes :) Monterey has some really easy rides and the one along the beach front is pretty flat and well-lit so we even did a little night cycling – I was more than a little chuffed with myself :) We also rode up to the front of the hotel we had dinner in and checked our bikes instead of a car – slightly childish but funny seeing the concierge wheel my bike around! :)

I rode my bike!

3. Visit Cannery Row – whilst it’s more than a little touristy there are some really interesting things to see and Mr B got to see what Steinbeck was chattering about. We had a wander around on our first day in Monterey, then returned for dinner in the Monterey Plaza Hotel’s Schooner’s Coastal Kitchen & Bar (where we checked the bikes) which had all your usual American fare along with a good selection of seafood specials…

Seafood platter at Monterey Bay

CanneryRow

4. Visit the Aquarium – We were also fortunate enough to get free aquarium passes with our apartment so got to enjoy the beauty of the Monterey Aquarium for free. At the end of Cannery Row and above the sea, this place is absolutely worth a visit, even if just for their excellent ‘feeling’ exhibits where you can actually hold and touch sea urchins and starfish and lots of other sea creatures – even rays though they were having none of it with me! :( The jellyfish area was also superb…

MontereyAquarium

5. Take a whale watching trip – We booked this on-line before we went to make sure that we would definitely get to go with Monterey Whale Watching.  We thought it was a gorgeous day but when we got down to the wharf they were pretty concerned that it was going to be too choppy out at sea for us tourists – I think they expected a lot of vomiting! But we were lucky and they decided to head out…

WhaleWatching

So that was Monterey Bay in all its beachy loveliness…onwards to Santa Barbara via a truly stunning drive – the Big Sur along Route 1!

Sonoma – the most beautiful place on earth (that I’ve been to)

Leaving San Francisco was somewhat painful in that we discovered the most excellent bar round the corner (Rye - they KNOW how to do cocktails) the night before after a day of drinking margaritas,  red wine and eating lots of cheese and had a rather crazy, drunken night that neither of us fully remember…though I’m 95% sure it involved lots of gin Martinis,  some Dutch air crew and Mr B eating pasta in his pants…perhaps it’s best that I forget the rest? ;)

So packing and leaving the San Francisco flat was pretty painful, not least because of the massive hangovers we had but also the fact that we had “lost” the keys to the flat. An hour of searching later, Mr B lay on the floor exhausted with no keys and found them on the floor, camouflaged in the carpet, where we’d thrown them in our drunken idiocy – a most awesome start the day!

Onwards to the hire car place where we managed to get our SUV whilst many, many others had to wait for hours for their convertibles (I saved money and 95% of the time it was too hot to have the top down/you would have eaten A LOT of flies!). Driving for the first time in the US whilst hung over was something of an experience but driving over the Golden Gate Bridge was the fulfilment of a dream for Mr B so he managed to crack a few smiles :)
SanFranciscoSonomaDrive

Arriving in Sonoma was just what we both needed, it was only about a 2 hour drive there through some gorgeous scenery and the place itself is just so beautiful, calm and relaxing.

Arranged around a square with a lovely park in the centre, Sonoma centre is full of amazing gourmet restaurants, little boutiques and cool architecture. The host where we stayed described it as “a more chilled out, beautiful Napa” which doesn’t even come close to how lovely the place was.
SonomaCentre

But the big win for me was our accommodation - I found Beltane Ranch online in some massively lucky moment, amongst all the many, many other accommodation options in the area. I was drawn by the idea that this was a working ranch, with its own wine and olive oil, and the pictures…surely nothing can look that beautiful in person…?! Why, yes it can! If you are ever in even the same continent as Beltane Ranch – go. I can’t possibly describe how wonderful it is so the pictures will just have to speak for themselves…

Beltane Ranch

Whilst I am so looking forward to our wedding next year, it actually made me wish I was American so that we could have our wedding there! They have a stage out back of the house under the shade of a tree, complete with fairy lights, a dance floor and a hammock. The party would be magical!

BeltaneRanch
We were only there for one night but visited the ‘hottest’ restaurant in Sonoma whilst we were there – The Girl and the Fig - run by Sondra Bernstein – who coincidently mentions Beltane Ranch in her recent book! We chose to sit out in the patio garden and all the staff were so concerned that I’d be cold (?!?) that they gave me a massive hand knitted blanket and kept checking on us to make sure we’d not frozen :) It wasn’t even close to cold by our standards!

The food was amazing, simple and well-tried and tested flavour combinations, but with fantastic, amazing ingredients! Mr B had roasted squash soup followed by wild flounder meunière with Yukon potato purée, cello spinach and a lemon-caper brown butter.  I had fig & arugula (rocket to the rest of us) salad with toasted pecans and dried figs followed by grilled pork porterhouse with celery root & quince purée and a pancetta vinaigrette. I accompanied mine with a wine flight and we just about managed to cram in a pudding that we shared of ​profiteroles which weren’t your usual but rather ”tahitian vanilla bean ice cream-filled cream puffs with a bittersweet chocolate sauce” – wow!

GirlandtheFig

After an amazing nights sleep (probably the best I’ve ever had – no ambient light and no noise) we awoke to an amazing breakfast cooked by the Ranch’s chef with ingredients from the Ranch. I’d thought that the food the night before was good but this was superb! We had fruit salad and freshly squeezed fruit juice followed by sweetcorn pancakes with fried onions and ham and maple syrup, all served on the Ranch’s veranda just outside our bedroom. Once again all the Americans thought we were crazy for sitting out there in our shorts…it might have been more than a little cold before the mist got burnt off by the sun…but I came for breakfast on the veranda and that is what we had!

BeltaneRanchBreakfast

And that was the wonderful Sonoma, one night out of many on our holiday but by far and away my favouritist place that we stayed/visited. Now onwards now to Monterey Bay…

MrBandMe

San Francisco – Amazing markets, Alcatraz and awesome pepitas!

In the interests of boring everyone senseless – and reliving our wonderful adventures – I thought I’d go chronologically through the places we visited on our wonderful visit to California last month. We started off in San Francisco, drove up to Sonoma, through wine country for a night and then back down to Monterey Bay. From there we went on to Santa Barbara for one evening and through Los Angeles (not quickly enough for my liking though) to San Diego. We then went to Las Vegas via Palm Springs for a night – a lot of desert driving!

So here begins the run down – San Francisco…thinking back to it, it might have actually been my favourite place we stayed…well except for Sonoma (where a little bit of me still is..but more on that later).

I just loved the feel of San Francisco – the crazy up and down roads, the cable cars, the gorgeous and food filled ferry buildings, the fantastic food, our gorgeous apartment, the hot tub (?!?), pretty much everything…well, except for all the homeless – I’ve never seen so many in one city! Quite a few Californian’s remarked to me that they congregate to San Francisco though as it’s such a nice place to live…not sure what to make of that one! ;)

We stayed just on the edge of the Tenderloin, on Leavenworth Street, in a stunning French style flat I found on the most excellent airbnb.com, that sadly is no longer being let by the owners so I feel extra lucky that we got to stay there! The flat was fantastic in its finish, cleanliness and space but by far the best thing was the amazing hot tub that we had!

FrenchFlatSanFrancisco

Outside of the flat we had lots of fun enjoying the city, riding the cable cars, walking along Fisherman’s Wharf and spending ages in the ferry buildings, taking the MUNI, visting Alcatraz and eating LOTS of cheese and wine (apparently Americans CAN do cheese!). Top places to visit/things to do that we loved…

1. Ride a cable car – we rode the cable car early morning before all the tourists got up and didn’t have to queue or even pay as the lovely ticket man didn’t have change and let us off (thank you again), we rode from Union Square up to Fisherman’s Wharf and had breakfast at Boudin’s. Get to Union Square for about 8am to avoid the (ridiculous) crowds you get there later on. You can then walk along the wharf to the ferry buildings for lunch and get a cable car back up to Union Square.

SanFranciscoCable Car

2. Visit the ferry buildings - The ferry buildings in San Francisco are full of shops selling fantastic hand-made items, artisan food shops and great restaurants.

It’s worth visiting on a Saturday morning so you can experience the market they have out the back which has the best vegetables I have ever seen! There’s also a great wine shop that also serves wine from the shop, cheese from the Cow Girl Creamery next door and bread from Acme Bread, the one next to that – such great food and drink! The Mexican restaurant in there (Mijita) that serves the best margaritas I’ve ever had and fantastic pepitas – even Mr B liked them :) The posh restaurant, Slanted Door, is a great place to have a drink – sit at the bar – their cocktails are pretty unique!

FerryBuildings

3. Take the boat to Alcatraz – Whilst Alcatraz itself was something of a disappointment, the cost of the ticket was well worth it for the views we got from the boat across San Francisco and it was great to see the place – so eerie! It’s just a shame that so much of the place was shut when we got there. Make sure you book ahead though as the boats will be booked up by the time you get there – Alcatraz Cruises.

AlcatrazCollage

4. Eat food, lots and lots of it! – The food in San Francisco was hugely varied with lots of Asian options as well as your usual American stuff and some great Mexican food. Other than the places I’ve already mentioned I’d also recommend the Urban Tavern (a bistro/gastropub) next to the Hilton just off Union Square and Cafe de la Press (a French bistro) which overlooks the Chinatown gate.

SanFranciscoFood

And that was San Francisco! A most wonderful place :) Onwards to Sonoma…

I’m back…

We have in fact been back for nearly a month but have been crazy busy in that time and I’ve not had chance to even think about blogging about the wonderful time we had or all the awesome things we did, let alone thinking about crafting of any kind!

But I’m now over the jet lag and (sort of) back into the swing of things…lots more to come shortly!

I leave you with a beautiful picture of a gorgeous beach on the Californian coast between Monterey and Carmel…

Monterey Beach